Sidemen — A Quiet Valley on the Lower Slopes of Mount Agung

Sidemen is  one of my favorite “off the tourist track” areas in Bali.

Sidemen, in Eastern Bali, rests in the foothills of Mount Agung, the island’s highest and most sacred mountain. This valley is known for its sweeping rice terraces, soft morning light, and lush hillsides—some of the most quietly beautiful landscapes in Bali. I first began bringing Journeys Off the Tourist Track groups to Sidemen in the 1990s, to a retreat center near the river, surrounded by nature and village life.

Sidemen offers a peaceful rhythm that contrasts beautifully with Bali’s busier beach towns. Many travelers enjoy walking through the rice fields, relaxing in small boutique hotels overlooking coconut palms, or taking gentle treks with a guide into villages where traditional life continues at its natural pace. You can visit a traditional weaver, where a single handwoven sarong may take a month to create, or cool off at a cave waterfall hidden in the valley. A newer addition to the area, Koli Koli, offers 22 plunge pools, daybeds, and sweeping views of Mount Agung—perfect for a slow afternoon.

From Sidemen, it’s easy to explore several meaningful cultural sites. Tirta Gangga, a former royal water palace fed by a sacred spring, offers cool, clear water even on a warm day. Nearby, Besakih, Bali’s largest and most important temple complex, remains a living spiritual center where villagers from across the island arrive—often in trucks sent by their communities—to pray and collect holy water for their village ceremonies. Most travelers only glimpse the surface of Besakih; your visit will allow you to experience its living spirituality in a more personal and meaningful way.

Sidemen itself continues to honor ancient Balinese traditions. Ceremonies may take place in village temples, by the river, or in the middle of rice fields, celebrating harmony with nature and Hindu spiritual values. Attending a ceremony can be extraordinary—the fragrance of incense, the layered rhythms of gamelan, and the many activities unfolding in different temple courtyards. These visits must always be arranged carefully and respectfully, ensuring you participate only as a mindful observer.

A stay in Sidemen fits beautifully into a customized journey, especially after time in a livelier town or beach area. It offers space to breathe, connect with the land, and experience a more timeless side of Bali’s cultural heritage.

When To Visit

April – September

After the rains, the island is lush and vibrant. Village life is active, ceremonies are frequent, and the landscapes feel especially fresh — perfect for countryside walks, artisan visits, and temple experiences.

September – December

Some rain begins in September along with sunny skies. The air is warm but comfortable, and the island settles into a calmer rhythm after peak season. It’s an ideal time for boutique retreats, cultural workshops, and exploring Bali’s quieter regions at an unhurried pace.